Libraries, Bookstores, & More: Cape Cod

Sturgis Library & The Cape Cod Book Trail

 “The time must come when this coast will be a place of resort for those New Englanders who really wish to visit the seaside.”

-Henry David Thoreau, 1865

The History

 Originally inhabited by the Nauset indigenous people of the Wampanoag Federation, the “Cape,” as it is lovingly called by locals, was named by English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold in 1602 due to the region’s abundance of codfish. As one of the earliest settlements by Puritan colonists, the fifteen towns of Cape Cod were incorporated starting in 1637—with the last occurring in1884. Like many other New England coastal hamlets, the Cape first saw prosperity through the whaling industry. However, as the trade ended, it would eventually become one of the most notable seaside vacation destinations in the Continental United States.

Old Sturgis Library

The Library

Although the sandy peninsula is what typically ignites one’s wanderlust, for the traveling bibliophile, the Cape has something extraordinary in its midst. Tucked away in the quaint town of Barnstable is the illustrious Sturgis Library. Although officially established as a public lending library in 1867, the original construction was built in 1644 as the home to Reverend John Lothrop, making it the oldest library building in the United States. As a meeting room for early Cape Cod settlers, it is also one of the oldest structures in America that was used for religious services. In its inception, Captain William Sturgis, a direct descendant of Reverend Lothrop, bequeathed the town of Barnstable the family home, along with $15,000 in bonds for the establishment of the library. When it opened, it started with 1,300 volumes and works; many of which came from Captain Sturgis’s personal collection. Currently, it has grown to house over 65,000 collections of books, manuscripts, photographs and much more.     

Upon arrival, you are first introduced to the contemporary simplicity of the library’s modernized addition to the original building. Inside you’ll find two stories of books that serve as a backdrop to a clean and crisp interior that delivers a homey vibe. Like many other libraries, there is a dedicated children’s section for young readers that offers a serene and creative reading space—you’ll even find a mobile of whales on the premises that would spark the interest of all. However, unlike other libraries, there is also a small section of used books for purchase.

Lothrop Bible

           Lothrop Room

While Sturgis Library continues to serve as a lending library, it is also quite the living museum. Through the main building, visitors will be able to access the original building and library. There you’ll be transported through time, as you wander through and view artifacts from Cape Cod’s early history, such as Reverend Lothrop’s bible. And with its high beamed ceilings and pumpkin-colored wood floors, there is no wonder why it has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

A Trail for Bibliophiles

The Sturgis library isn’t the only exciting find on Cape Cod for book lovers—within its 339 miles of sandy coastline and 15 towns, the Cape has 19 bookstores to explore. I know, right? 19! Bookstores! From Provincetown to Falmouth, you can literally “read the cape.” And that’s just the motto of The Cape and Island Bookstore Trail. If you’re like me and like to take your time browsing and relishing the sea of books around you, then you’ll most certainly need more visits to Cape Cod to see them all—which doesn’t seem like a bad deal to me. I mean, who wouldn’t want to spend their days on a beautiful peninsula, browsing through literary works—from old to new, and contemporary to the classics, alike?

Although I would love to give you a rundown of every bookstore, for this post, I’m going to write about my favorites. First, we’ll start in the town of Mashpee, where you’ll find Market Street Bookshop Inc. While there, you’ll see a myriad of books lined on tall wooden shelves, that would please both young and mature readers alike. But the books aren’t the only thing that’s inviting; the large windows that enclose the shop emit a sea of natural light, lending a sense of tranquility and stillness. It radiated a sense of safety that made me want to find a corner to curl up in, with one of the many books that surrounded me.   

The next bookstore is in the coastal town of Chatham, where beautiful resorts and sandy beaches form a backdrop of gorgeous shingle-style homes, adorned with gabled roof-tops and exteriors washed in gray and white. It is the architectural design that is characteristic of many Cape Cod homes and shops, and what you’d find upon your arrival to Where the Sidewalk Ends Bookstore. Like many Cape Cod structures, the interior boasts sleek wooden floors that extend to the store’s wall, while the large windows give an open and airy feeling, complimenting the buildings architecture and making you feel as if you were on a ship out to sea.

Unlike some of the other bookstores in the area, Where the Sidewalk Ends Bookstore has a rather large collection of books to choose from. So much so, they have an entire building dedicated to young children, as well as a second floor for older children and teens. My kids absolutely loved going through all the sections of books and viewing all the toys and knickknacks on display. And as if this place wasn’t homey enough, they have a wonderful fireplace that sits as a beautiful focal piece within the store.

Family Fun & Sand

Windmill at Heritage Museum & Gardens

As a sought-after vacation destination, there are plenty of sights and things to do on the Cape. From the eclectic ambiance and vibrancy of Provincetown to the beautiful beaches in Falmouth, there is a lot to see within each of the 15 towns. However, I’m going to narrow it down to a few noteworthy places, starting with the Heritage Museums & Gardens in Sandwich. With its beautiful flora and Dutch windmill, a walk through the amazing grounds is sure to put you at peace. But the vegetation isn’t the only thing the Heritage Museums & Gardens has to offer. They also house two museums; one of which is a nod to the history and legacy of Cape Cod, the other is a collection of some of the most beautiful automobiles throughout history I have ever seen. And that isn’t all. The grounds also include interactive play areas in Hidden Hallow, as well as the 1908 Looff Carousel. Also, the museum is free for military families during the “Blue Star Months.”

The Heritage Museum & Gardens isn’t the only place for families to enjoy, in the town of Yarmouth, you will find the Whydah Pirate Museum. At the museum, you and your family can explore a pirate ship, go on a treasure hunt, and learn about the history of pirating and the Whydah Gally, which wrecked off the coast of Cape Cod. And for more Cape Cod history, check out the Mashpee Wampanoag Museum. While there, be sure to check out the Native dwelling called the wetu.  

If you’re in the mood for shopping and art, take a drive to the very tip of the peninsula. Also known as “P-town,” the beloved Provincetown is a place where art meets sand and sun. Visitors can spend their time traipsing through the assorted shops and galleries at Whalers Wharf and downtown, or visit the Bob Gasoi Memorial Art Alley.

Don’t forget, there are plenty of beaches and lakes to help you beat the heat. The ones I particularly liked were Old Silver Beach in Falmouth, and Dowses Beach in Barnstable, where there were plenty of shells and shellfish to find. But be aware, Dowses is only available to residents or those staying within an Airbnb in the town.

Brick Block Ice Cream and Crepes

Places to Eat

When it comes to places to enjoy a meal, there is no better place than the Cape to do so. With 15 towns, there are an abundance of restaurants, bakeries, and ice cream shops to enjoy. For lobster rolls and sandwiches, I found Box Lunch in Provincetown to be very good. If you’re interested in Mediterranean food and great drinks, then try Trevi Café and Wine Bar in Mashpee. And although we didn’t have a sandwich in Sandwich, my family and I did enjoy some great barbecue at Uncle Dave’s BBQ & Bar. Lastly, if you desire something sweet, try Maison Villate in Falmouth for some French pastries or Brick Block Ice Cream and Crêpes in Chatham for a cool treat.

  Stay

As a family of 6, our only option was to stay at a local Airbnb. However, for lodging options that are suitable to your needs, please click HERE.

 So, if you’re looking for a good time and long drives along a sandy coastline of trails filled with wonders and stories, then my fellow bibliophile, Cape Cod is the place for you. Now go. Plan your trip. Summer isn’t quite over yet.

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Libraries, Bookstores, & More: Martha’s Vineyard